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There’s something cheerful about a slab of pink cake sitting on a wire rack, waiting to be cut into squares.
Tottenham cake started at the J. Lyons bakery in north London in the early 1900s. Factory workers wanted something cheap and sweet, so the bakery topped a plain vanilla sponge with pink icing colored from mulberries grown right on the site.
I make mine with a few drops of pink food coloring since mulberries aren’t exactly a pantry staple. The icing sets glossy, the coconut on top adds a bit of chew similar to toasted coconut blondies, and the sponge underneath stays soft for days.
This isn’t a fussy cake. Mix, bake, ice, cut into squares. That’s it.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- One bowl, one pan, no layers to stack or level
- Stays soft for days thanks to the icing seal
- Cheap ingredients you likely already have
- Freezes well before icing for easy make-ahead baking
Ingredient Notes
- Unsalted butter: Softened butter creams faster and gives a lighter crumb. Margarine works too and is closer to the original bakery version.
- Pink food coloring: A drop or two gives the classic pale pink. Fresh raspberry or mulberry juice is closer to how Lyons colored the original icing.
- Desiccated coconut: Unsweetened dried coconut gives the right texture. Sweetened shredded coconut works but makes the top sweeter and slightly chewier.
- Whole milk: Keeps the batter loose enough to spread evenly in the pan. Lower-fat milk works but the crumb turns a touch drier.
- Powdered sugar: Sift it before mixing the icing. Unsifted sugar leaves small lumps that show up as bumps under the pink color.
Tottenham Cake with Pink Coconut Icing
Ingredients
Method
- Heat the oven to 180 C / 350 F. Grease a 23x33 cm / 9x13-inch baking pan and line it with parchment.
- Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl with a hand mixer for 3 to 4 minutes, until pale and fluffy.
- Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each, then mix in the vanilla extract.
- Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together in a separate bowl. Add to the butter mixture in three additions, alternating with the milk, mixing just until smooth.
- Spread the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the top springs back when pressed.
- Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes, then lift onto a wire rack to cool completely, about 45 to 60 minutes, before icing.
- Sift the powdered sugar into a medium bowl. Whisk in the water or lemon juice one tablespoon at a time until the icing is thick but pourable.
- Add 1 to 2 drops of pink food coloring and stir until the icing turns an even pale pink.
- Pour the icing over the cooled cake and spread it to the edges with an offset spatula.
- Scatter the desiccated coconut evenly over the wet icing before it starts to set, within about 5 minutes.
- Let the icing set at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes, then cut into 16 squares.
Notes
- Cool the cake fully before icing or it will slide off.
- Sift the powdered sugar to avoid lumps in the icing.
- Add pink coloring in drops. A little goes a long way.
- Cut into squares once icing sets, about 20 to 30 minutes.
Tips for Success
- Cream the butter and sugar for a full 3 to 4 minutes so the crumb stays soft, not dense.
- Sift the flour and baking powder together to avoid streaks of raw flour in the batter.
- Cool the sponge completely on a wire rack before icing, or the icing melts and slides off.
- Add pink food coloring one drop at a time. Classic Tottenham cake is pale pink, not hot pink.
- Scatter the coconut while the icing is still wet, the same way toasted flakes cling to no-bake coconut pudding cups, so it sticks instead of falling off when you cut squares.
Variations
- Swap desiccated coconut for toasted coconut flakes for a nuttier crunch on top of the icing.
- Use fresh raspberry or mulberry juice instead of food coloring for a more traditional, fruit-toned pink icing.
- Add finely grated lemon zest to the batter for a brighter, citrus-forward version of the classic sponge.
Storage and Reheating
Tottenham cake keeps well at room temperature. Store cut squares in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days, layered with parchment so the icing doesn’t stick together.
Skip the fridge. Cold air dries out the sponge and makes the icing sweat.
To freeze, wrap the un-iced sponge tightly in plastic and freeze for up to 2 months. Thaw at room temperature, then ice and top with coconut just before serving.
Serving Suggestions
Tottenham cake is a teatime cake first, much like golden syrup flapjacks. Cut it into small squares and serve with a pot of strong black tea, the way it would have landed on a factory break table in Edwardian London.
It also works for a casual afternoon spread with lemonade or iced tea in summer.
For a simple dessert, set a small scoop of vanilla ice cream next to a warm square, though the cake is sweet enough on its own.
FAQ
Why did my Tottenham cake icing turn out streaky instead of smooth?
Streaky icing usually means the powdered sugar wasn’t sifted or the icing was too thick to spread evenly. Sift the sugar first and add water a tablespoon at a time until the icing pours slowly off a spoon. Work fast once it’s mixed, since it firms up quickly.
Can I use raspberry juice instead of food coloring for the pink icing?
Yes, fresh raspberry or mulberry juice works and is closer to the original bakery recipe than food coloring. Use 1 to 2 tablespoons in place of some of the water, adjusting until the icing reaches a spreadable, glossy consistency. The color will be softer and slightly less bright.
How long does Tottenham cake stay fresh once it’s iced?
Iced Tottenham cake stays fresh for 3 to 4 days in an airtight container at room temperature. Layer squares with parchment so the icing doesn’t stick to itself. Don’t refrigerate it, since cold air dries out the sponge and makes the icing go tacky.
What goes with Tottenham cake at teatime?
Strong black tea is the classic pairing, cutting through the sweetness of the pink icing. A small pot of tea with milk and a stack of these squares makes a simple afternoon spread. Lemonade or iced tea works well in warmer months too.
Is Tottenham cake dairy free or nut free?
Tottenham cake is naturally nut free but not dairy free, since the batter uses butter and milk. To make it dairy free, swap in a plant-based butter and milk alternative. The icing itself is just powdered sugar and water, so it’s dairy free on its own.
What’s the difference between Tottenham cake and a Victoria sponge?
Tottenham cake is a single-layer traybake topped with pink water icing and coconut, while a Victoria sponge is two layers sandwiched with jam and cream. Tottenham cake is denser and meant to be cut into small squares, closer to a snacking cake than a celebration cake.
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