Rinse the glutinous rice in a fine-mesh sieve until the water runs mostly clear. Soak in cold water for 4 hours or overnight, then drain well.

Soak the dried jujubes in warm water for 10 minutes to soften, then pit and halve them. Peel and halve the chestnuts if using fresh.

Line a 26 cm / 10-inch steamer basket with damp cheesecloth and spread the drained rice in an even layer. Steam over boiling water for 20 minutes until the grains look translucent but still slightly firm at the core.

While the rice steams, whisk together the soy sauce, brown sugar, honey, 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil, cinnamon and water in a bowl until the sugar mostly dissolves.

Transfer the steamed rice to a large mixing bowl. Pour the caramel sauce over it, then add the chestnuts and jujubes. Fold gently until every grain is coated and the color is even.

Return the mixture to the steamer, re-lined with fresh cheesecloth. Cover and steam for 45 to 50 minutes, stirring once halfway through, until the rice turns deep mahogany brown and looks glossy and sticky.

Check doneness by tasting a grain. It should be fully chewy with no white starchy spots left. If it still looks pale or feels chalky, steam another 10 minutes and check again.

Remove from heat and fold in the pine nuts along with the remaining 1 tablespoon of sesame oil.

Line a 23 cm / 9-inch square baking dish with plastic wrap. Press the warm rice into the dish firmly and smooth the top with the back of a spoon.

Let cool to room temperature, then lift out using the plastic wrap and cut into squares to serve.